A history of Raglan sleeve

Lord FitzRoy Somerset was a British officer who lost his hand after being shot by a French sniper at the Battle of Waterloo. Due to this traumatic injury his uniform made it hard for him to move. He continued to serve for 30 more years and became Master-General while also earning a new title - Baron Raglan. 

In 1851, John Emery founded Aquascutum, a tailor in Mayfair that became popular among military officers and the upper class. Emery and his team designed a new sleeve style for Baron Raglan to improve his range of motion.

Raglan sleeve today

For many years, the raglan sleeve was primarily used in coats, but today it’s commonly found on knitwear, sweatshirts and t-shirts. It is easy to spot because is lacks defined shoulder seams and offers a smooth fit that follows the natural curve of the shoulder. Its armhole adapts to any body shape and remains comfortable, even over a suit jacket.

Raglan Sleeve Hooded Sweatshirt

About the Balmacaan coat

A balmacaan is a loose, roomy, single-breasted overcoat with raglan sleeves, often made from thick wool or tweed. It is named after an estate near Inverness, Scotland and was first mentioned in the second half of the 19th century. The raglan sleeve not only provides a greater range of motion but also protects against water penetration by eliminating the shoulder seam. The coat comes with a Prussian collar, buttoned sleeve straps to keep out the wind and rain, and a fly-front closure to prevent the buttons from snagging.

It became popular in the 1930s after the Prince of Wales (later Edward VIII and Duke of Windsor) wore one to the Epsom Derby in 1929. Known for his trend-setting style, he helped make the coat a fashion staple. It became especially popular among American college students, who appreciated its versatility and easy style. By the mid-1930s, it was as popular on campuses as the camel hair polo coat.

Since then, the overcoat has become a timeless classic, barely influenced by changing fashion trends. Over the years, its length, fit and shape have varied slightly, but the core design has stayed the same for over 150 years. That’s because it is a combination of timeless design, quality fabric and practicality, which makes it work with any style.

Below is a list of the best quality options available today.


Berg and Berg
Nelson Tweed Raglan Coat  - available in 9 versions
Price: from 1195€, Buy it here.

Trunk Clothiers
Devonshire Overcoat - available in 2 versions
Price: from £895, Buy it here.

Chrysalis
Kensington Raglan Overcoat - available in 3 versions
Price: from 1295€, Buy it here.

J. Press
Made-in-USA Cheviot Tweed Top Coat
Price: 1139,95€, Buy it here.

Drake’s
Wool Raglan Coat - available in 7 versions
Price: 1850€, Buy it here.

De Bonne Facture
Camarague Coat - available in 2 versions
Price: 950€, Buy it here.

Poszetka
Wool Raglan Coat - available in 3 versions
Price: from 769€, Buy it here.

Fortela
Amedeo Single-Breasted Wool Coat Green - available in 2 versions
Price: from 1270€, Buy it here.

Valstar Milano
Raglan Overcoat - available in 6 versions
Price: 1500€, Buy it here.

Private White V.C.
The General's Overcoat
Price: 1650€, Buy it here.

Document
Donegal Tweed Oversized Balmacan Coat - available in 3 versions
Price: $1084, Buy it here.

Kaptain Sushine
Traveller Coat - available in 3 versions
Price: 1230€, Buy it here.

Gloverall
Hynes Harris Tweed Coat - available in 5 versions
Price: from 899€, Buy it here.

Wythe
Raglan Wool Overcoat - available in 5 versions
Price: from 1416€, Buy it here.

John Simmons
Tweed Overcoat - available in 4 versions
Price: from £662.50, Buy it here.

Arpenteur
Utile Overcoat - available in 3 versions
Price: 950€, Buy it here.

Justo Gimeno
Coat "Duque" made from Original Donegal Tweed by Magee - available in 2 versions
Price: 1410€, Buy it here.

Horatio London
Kilmore Coat - available in 2 versions
Price: 849,95€, Buy it here.

William Crabtree
Rossendale Raglan Coat - available in 2 versions
Price: 1273,95€, Buy it here.

Private White V.C. x The Permanent Style
Donegal Overcoat - available in 2 versions
Price: 1500€, Buy it here.

Anglo Italian
Raglan Sleeve Wool Overcoat - available in 2 versions
Price: 1570€, Buy it here.

The Anthology
The 'A' Wrap Coat - Brown Cavalry Twill
Price: $1650, Buy it here.

Johnstons of Elgin
'The Balmacaan' Coat - available in 4 versions
Price: fro 1995€, Buy it here.

New and Lingwood
Raglan Sleeve Overcoat - available in 2 versions
Price: 1500€, Buy it here.


I think a proper coat length is below the knees, and I also prefer a longer vent at the back that helps it drape nicely and move more dramatically. I also prefer it in patterned wool because a long, wide coat that covers most of the body in a solid color can look too plain and boring. But if you want to keep it monochrome, I’d go for navy herringbone or camel hair to add some texture. It’s also worth thinking about a belted or non-belted version - a belt definitely adds extra personality to a coat, but can make it too dramatic, which some might want to avoid.

Let me know if you have a favorite overcoat or which one you prefer.


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